London to Istanbul

Day 30: 2nd June ’05

Distance: 0 miles
Total Distance: 1675.3 miles
Route: Kassiopi

More of the same today. It’s been really nice to relax these past few days (and eat loads of good food). But, even after such a short rest period, I’m ready to get back on the bike now and put down some serious mileage. I think I would go nuts if I was here for 2 weeks straight.

Catching some rays by the pool the last few days, without having my cycling top on has changed me from looking like a ‘humbug’ into looking like ‘Neapolitan Ice-Cream’! A fantastic thunderstorm tonight as I sat on the balcony sipping a few light ales. Back to the grind tomorrow.

Day 31: 3rd June ’05

Distance: 84.14 miles
Total Distance: 1759.5 miles
Route: Kassiopi » Igounimitsa » Ionina

Incredibly hard day today after the few days rest on Corfu. I wasn’t expecting the mountains of mainland Greece to be quite so ‘mountainous’. 3 huge climbs today. The 2nd one was probably much worse than anything I’d had in the Alps! Not as high, or quite as steep but in the scorching temperatures the climb was painfully long and winding. The last 20 miles today were downright awful. I was worried for a few minutes that something serious was happening, as I felt very nauseous and had a banging headache, and had to sit by the roadside for almost an hour.

Was most likely the combination of heat, altitude and having a few days rest beforehand. It’s amazing how quickly you can lose your fitness. I expect to be physically stronger tomorrow, but looking at the map the climbs will be even worse.

I tried to explain the definition of ‘Irony’ to an Italian couple the other day; getting completely drenched in a thunderstorm the day you decide to throw away all your wet-weather clothes (to lighten the load) probably comes close. Or is that closer to the dictionary definition of ‘stoopid’?

Day 32: 4th June ’05

Distance: 77.86 miles
Total Distance: 1837.4 miles
Route: Ionina » Meteora

The Horror !! Oh dear, a very painful day indeed – but thankfully it was extremely rewarding as well. The ‘Katara Pass’ at 1746 metres was not as high as the ‘Splugenpass’ from Switzerland to Italy, but felt much worse to get over. It just went on and on and on… and on. Still, the scenery was something else. From previous visits, I knew that Greece had some of the best beaches in the world, but I hadn’t realised just how attractive the interior was.

I really like Greece and the Greek mentality. Towards the top of a big climb, the car drivers would ‘peep’ you gently to encourage that the top wasn’t far away. I almost ran over a snake and two lizards today. Obviously, catching some rays on the warm tarmac before being rudely disturbed by the traffic.

Staying in a lovely room tonight, with a view of the incredible rock outcrop of ‘Meteora’. The actual rock formations remind me of the ‘Kata Tjuta’ mountains in Australia. There are several monasteries built at the top of the various rock outcrops; some are only reached by basket! (Once shown in the James Bond Film ‘For Your Eyes Only’)

My room is actually within the campsite grounds. It costs 10 Euros to camp, or 20 Euros for a really comfortable en-suite room: You ‘do the Math’! I’m in a really great mood tonight. It’s probably got something to do with heat-induced delerium and exhaustion, and possibly also because of the half litre of ‘Retsina’ I bought at the supermarket.

I’m feeling fitter now than at any other point in my life and it’s such a great feeling being healthy. I did wonder what the true purpose of this trip was, especially when having such a negative experience in Italy.
I’ve now come to the conclusion that it’s simply about appreciation. I’m incredibly fortunate to enjoy the life I have, and to have the family, friends and opportunities open to me.

Day 33: 5th June ’05

Distance: 24.79 miles
Total Distance: 1862.2 miles
Route: Meteora » Trikala

Yesterdays good mood surely set me up for a fall today. I punctured after 10 miles today, and tried several times to fix it to no avail. Was forced to stop and find a bike shop to buy new tubes and repair kit. However, today is Sunday which means nothing is open! Decide not to worry about it too much and have a rest day instead. ‘Trikala’ is quite a cool little place. By the way – I think that Greece is very fashionable, with some fantastic bars and hang-outs.

In the evening, my rest is rudely shattered when washing some clothes in my room. God knows how, but I manage to completely break the sink. Unbelievably, both hands go straight through the porcelain while rinsing my y-fronts and socks. The sink was already chipped, and I must have ‘broken the camels back’ with my over-enthusastic hand-washing (Either that, or I am gaining super-human powers).

I’ve tried to superglue the porcelain back together, but it looks like something a trainee Blue Peter presenter (on acid) might have put together. I tell thee – if it had been a Royal Doulton sink this wouldn’t have happened. As I said, the sink was already chipped, and I’m in a dilemma whether to tell the management or not. I don’t want to get charged for something that isn’t really my fault. Who’s ever heard of breaking a sink with your bare-hands!!?

Day 34: 6th June ’05

Distance: 77.74 miles
Total Distance: 1939.9 miles
Route: Trikala » Saint Demitrios

A sharp exit this morning (hopefully I won’t be appearing on International Crimewatch anytime soon), following a brief diversion to the now-open bike shop. Made good distance today after yesterdays unscheduled brevity. Hard climbs again today, but I’m starting to think that I’ve mastered the fine art of riding through mountains: patience.

If you really attack a big climb then you’ll be totally wrecked after a few miles, and these climbs can go on for upwards of 20 miles. You need to treat the mountain with respect, and ‘you know what Paul’… climbing a mountain is very much like making love to a beautiful woman. You need to keep it slow and steady, making sure you don’t blow-up before reaching the summit…

I’m staying in a very weird mountain village tonight. The hotel is nice enough, but I’m the only guest staying there and I’ve been given the key to the front door! There’s no-one on reception or anywhere else. The shopkeepers in the village have a very strange attitude; almost confrontational if you attempt to enter the shop, and heaven forbid, actually buy something. Must be a ‘local shop for local people’.

Day 35: 7th June ’05

Distance: 111.79 miles
Total Distance: 2051.8 miles
Route: Saint Demitrios » Thessaloniki » Ag. Triada

My first ever ‘ton’ today… and then some! I didn’t mean to stay on the bike quite so long, but I was struggling for a decent place to stay and decided to just carry on until something came along. Physically was actually no real problem today, even into a strong headwind for most of the day. The weather has really taken a turn for the worse now.

Needed to have balls and some brains to successfully navigate through Greece’s second largest city ‘Thessaloniki’. I challenge anyone to find an easy route in from the west, while avoiding the motorways – and still managing to cross the many rivers. Commuting by bike in London for several years has made me pretty much fearless in traffic (obviously while being safe and not overconfident), but it was still no fun battling through the traffic today.

I’ve decided that I definitely want to be in Istanbul by day 50; it’s a nice even number. Reckon I could easily make it there by day 45, but will take my time. My initial estimate for total trip distance of 2700 miles looks like being not too far off correct.

Day 36: 8th June ’05

Distance: 0 miles
Total Distance: 2051.8 miles
Route: Ag. Triada

Woke up early, ready for another full days ride, but decided against it in the end! I have time to rest, and yesterday was a long ride. This place has a very charming nature; very laid back, but with just enough convenience. Shame about the weather though – raining again.

Day 37: 9th June ’05

Distance: 66.36 miles
Total Distance: 2118.1 miles
Route: Ag. Triada » Asprovalta

Not a bad distance done today, and even though I was on the bike for 5 hours, reached the destination at 1.00pm. I’ve realised that I must have a very unusual ‘touring’ style. I don’t really like to have breaks, and just keep pedalling until the days mileage is complete. I find it difficult to get going again if I stop for too long. An hour lunch break, and a nap, would be the end of my day there and then. I like to stop off quickly at points of interest along the route, but prefer to have longer walking around the destination in the afternoon and evening.

Was glad to get off the bike early today though, as I had been in a foul mood for most of the morning and just didn’t want to be on the road any longer. Partly because of the day off yesterday, and partly because of the insane crazy b*stard dogs in Greece. It’s really a huge problem as you get chased (very scarily) by a hound on average every 30 metres or so. Or at least it feels that way. It’s made me very paranoid and pissed off at the owners of these dogs (if indeed they do have owners).

Another weird thing about Greece is that absolutely nobody cycles, except perhaps in urban areas. I’ve seen one cyclist in 10 days – and that was an Italian tourist! Staying at another laid-back beach town tonight. Hoping to reach ‘Thassos’ island by tomorrow night.

Day 38: 10th June ’05

Distance: 70.30 miles
Total Distance: 2188.5 miles
Route: Asprovalta » Limenaria

Managed to get to ‘Thassos’ island today, and quite nice it is too! Because there is no airport on the island, the tourism is fairly low-key and has a managable vibe. Not sure how long I will stay; it depends largely on the weather which is still poor. Tired tonight – I’ll keep this entry short and sweet.

Day 39: 11th June ’05

Distance: 0 miles
Total Distance: 2188.5 miles
Route: Limenaria

A day off chilling, sunbathing, eating and drinking. What more is there to say!?